How Tree Companies Fix Yellowing Palms

How Tree Companies Fix Yellowing Palms

If you want to give your property a tropical feel, you may decide to plant palm trees. These are highly popular ornamental plants, especially in areas like Sarasota and the suncoast islands were homeowners can grow nearly every kind of palm without too much trouble from the cold in winter. Seeing them flourishing in your garden and swaying with the wind will make you feel as though you’re on a paradise island.

The Problem

Like any other tree, the palm requires proper maintenance and nutrition. Generally, palm trees are supposed to stay green throughout the year—they do not change colors with the season. So if you notice their leaves turning yellow, you may need to have them inspected because it could be an indication of possible health problems.

In some cases, the yellowing of OLD leaves can be natural. As the palm matures, some of its old fronds may turn yellow and fall off. These are the ones that you see at the base of the tree. If your palm remains green and only the older leaves turn yellow, there’s nothing to worry about. If it’s been dry and the palm has a lot of older leaves beginning to turn, you may need to trim away the old fronds that will eventually turn brown.

However, the discoloration may not also be due to natural causes. If you notice the yellow leaves for a long period, there may be a problem. Some palm trees suffer from this condition due to a lack of necessary nutrients in the soil. Another possible reason is the existence of pests or fungi.

The Cause

Once you realize that the yellowing is not due to maturity, consult a professional tree company or a certified arborist. An expert can determine the cause and apply the appropriate solution.

Nutritional Or Mineral Deficiency Palm trees need nitrogen for growth and development. Nitrogen deficiency may be due to the use of the wrong fertilizer or insufficient sources in the soil. Lack of the nutrient may be the cause of yellowing if it affects old and new fronds alike. You can ask a certified arborist for guidance in choosing the right fertilizer. They can also give you advice on how often you need to use it depending on the nutrition level of the soil.

Palm trees also need several other minerals to help them stay healthy. Your arborist may have to perform a soil test to determine what is lacking. The most common minerals that are found to be insufficient are the following:

• Potassium
• Iron
• Magnesium
• Manganese

• Diseases Trees can get sick too. Some diseases that affect palm trees are irreversible. However, all of them are preventable. Proper care and maintenance can help defend your palm against illnesses. No matter what the cause of the yellowing, you will need an arborist if it is not a natural occurrence. A professional can provide medication to address the issue.

• Pests Sometimes, the cause of yellowing is the presence of other living organisms. Pests may infest your palm tree and cause the discoloration. Some of the common ones in Southwest Florida are whiteflies, mole crickets, aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites.

The Treatment

Not all yellowing palms are hopeless. With the help of a professional tree company, you may be able to save the life of your trees. You will need experts for proper diagnosis and treatment.

• A tree company can perform a comprehensive soil test.
• They can help replenish the soil and supplement the missing nutrients by gradually introducing fertilizer.
• They can provide a fertilization schedule and do the job for you.
• They can perform routine trimming.

If you want to learn more about what a tree company can do for you, contact GreenTech Tree & Landscape today.

Palm Care After Hurricane Irma

It is true that many palm species are adapted to high velocity winds. However, a hurricane can damage even the most wind tolerant palm.

 

Sabal Palms Sarasota Florida

Sabal Palm Trees, Sarasota Florida.

 

The apical meristem, also known as the “bud” is the active cell division area of the palm. The apical meristem is found at the top of the trunk and is surrounded by leaf bases. All new leaves come from this bud. If the bud is damaged, new leaves failed to develop and the palm slowly dies.

It is very difficult to determine or to predict which palms will survive when damaged and which ones will not. The bud is not visible or accessible for inspection. The native Sabal Palm and the Royal Palm tend to tolerate high winds. Royal Palms tend to shed most of their leaves, while Sabal Palms/cabbage Palms tend to hold onto their leaves.

Cuban Royal Palm Trees Sarasota Florida

Cuban Royal Palm Trees, Southwest Florida

 

 

It is important to note that it can take up to 2 years before you will be able to determine whether a palm has recovered from a wind storm event. Recovery consists of new leaves emerging from the bud; abnormal at first but slowly becoming normally shaped, until eventually normal leaves will appear. It is recommended that damaged palms should be carefully monitored for the next 2 years.

Storm related damage to palms:

Uprooted:

Palms should be stood upright as soon as possible and replanted at the same depth they were originally planted. Bracing may be required. Braces should be kept in place for at least 6 months. Uprooted palms that are replanted should be considered newly planted. Establishment irrigation is critical and should be monitored closely.

Damage leaves:

Damaged green leaves should be left attached to the palm. Palms reallocate resources from old leaves 2 new leaves. Damaged green leaves left on the palm will allow the palm to recover quicker.

Fertilization:

For wind damaged palms that have not been uprooted, it is recommended to maintain the same fertilization regiment that was in place prior to the storm event. For those damage palms that have been uprooted and replanted, it is recommended that no extra fertilizer be applied.

Fungicides:

There is no empirical scientific research that justifies the use of fungicides after a hurricane. However, GreenTech Sustainable Organic Solutions recommends the application of copper in the form of a bud drench, together with a trunk injection of an insecticide and fungicide. It is quite possible that the apical meristem/bud may have been damaged. This recommendation is nothing more than an “insurance policy”.

The Right Tree In The Right Place

The average life of a tree in the landscape is only 8 years due to poor design and planting techniques.

Size is a primary consideration in tree selection. Tree should fit in the available growing space without pruning. This is of primary concern under utility lines as the utility has the right-of-way. Because large trees give a high return in environmental benefits, plant large tree species whenever the space allows. Large trees can be structurally strong if attention is given to structural training while young. Homeowners often desire fast growing trees. However, fast growing species are typically more prone to insect, diseases and internal decay. Fast growing species typically have shorter lifespans.

Suitable routing space is a major limiting factor in tree growth. Poor soil conditions contributing 80% of tree health issues. Unfortunately, many homeowners in landscape design is failed to consider soil limitations in tree selection and planting. Impacts of poor soil conditions include:

– many trees failed to establish or slow to establish
– growth rates will be reduced
– tree vigor will be low, predisposing trees to insects, diseases, and other stress factors.
– Mature size will be smaller
– longevity will be shorter

Soil texture, structure, and tilth are also considerations in tree selection

Palm Tree Nutrition

Proper fertilization is one of the most important factors in maintaining good palm health and appearance, especially on Florida’s nutrient-poor soils. Potassium and Magnesium are deficient in most Florida sandy soils.

There are a number of fertilizers that typically have 30% to 50% or less of their N and K in a controlled release form, the remainder being water soluble. This means that over half of the 5 to 8 lbs of fertilizer applied per tree is quickly solubilized. If moderate to heavy rainfall or irrigation occurs, this majority of the applied fertilizer is quickly leached through the soil and beyond the root zone of the palms. This fertilizer is wasted from the plant’s perspective, but does contribute to the pollution of our ground water. On the other hand, with minimal irrigation or rainfall, this solubilized fertilizer will remain in the root zone at concentrations high enough to cause soluble salt injury to many species of palms, other ornamentals, and adjacent turf grass.

It is important to understand that the soluble portion, most of the 5 to 8 lbs. per palm applied, is not doing much good. Under moderate to heavy leaching conditions it is quickly lost to the groundwater and is not available to the palm roots. Under minimal leaching, it releases toxic concentrations of salts that can injure the roots of many plants. Thus with water-soluble fertilizers, it is usually either too much or not enough nutrients for the palm. In either case the result is unattractive, deficient or tip-burned foliage.

I recommend 100% time or controlled release fertilizers. Sulfur-coated urea and Sulfur-coated potassium sulfate – N=nitrogen, P=phosphorus, K=potassium, Mg=magnesium, Ca=calcium, Mn=manganese, Fe=iron, B=boron, Cu=copper, Zn=zinc. These can easily be blended by any fertilizer company. Sulfur-coated fertilizers have a useful life of about 3 months under south/central Florida conditions. The sulfur coating also renders these fertilizers acidic in pH, a useful feature on our alkaline soils. Most of the fertilizer companies producing palm fertilizers for Florida have already formulated products that meet these criteria.
Of all the slow-release K sources tested, sulfur-coated potassium sulfate was found to be the most effective and economical. Prilled kieserite (a more slowly soluble form of magnesium sulfate than Epsom salts) is an effective and low-cost slow release form of Mg. Coated Mg products tend to release too slowly to be effective. Slow release B sources such as Granubor are less affected by leaching than the water soluble B sourcesoften used in landscape fertilizer blends. The only recommended Mn, Zn, and Cu sources are the sulfate forms of these elements. Since iron sulfate is rather ineffective on most Florida soils, granular chelated products such as Trachelene Fe are preferred for blending into palm maintenance fertilizers.

Palms, like other ornamental plants in a landscape, are all growing in the same soil with their root systems intermingled. Therefore they are all subject to the same nutrient deficiency symptoms associated with that soil. It is no secret that palm special fertilizers work well on other plants as well as palms. These plants, however, are often less salt tolerant than palms and cannot tolerate the concentration of fertilizers typically applied to palms. A much more logical approach to this problem is to fertilize the entire landscape, rather than individual trees. By broadcasting (use a rotary spreader) 100% coated fertilizers at a rate of 1.5 lbs. of fertilizer (not N) per 100 sq. ft. of landscape area (or at least tree canopy area) 4 times per year, you will be applying about the same amount of fertilizer per palm as before. However, you will be providing fertilizer to all of the palm’s roots, not just the small fraction near the trunk. Groundcovers and other ornamentals in the landscape will also benefit from this approach. Most of all, these 100% coated fertilizers will even out the peaks of toxicity and valleys of starvation that occur with current mostly water-soluble fertilizers.

Can the current palm special fertilizers be used more effectively? Certainly. By applying them more frequently at lower rates and by broadcasting rather than banding them, their effectiveness will be enhanced. These fertilizers should be broadcast at a rate of 3/4 to 1 lb. /100 sq. ft. of landscape area every month. This will dramatically improve plant quality, but will also cost more in terms of additional fertilizer applied (about twice as much) and the labor to apply it (about 3 times as much).

In conclusion, our current palm fertilization recommendations just aren’t working as well as they could and can cause injury under certain conditions. Palms and other landscape ornamentals can be much more effectively and efficiently fertilized by broadcasting a 2N-1P-3K-1Mg plus micronutrients fertilizer over the entire ornamental landscape area at a rate of 1.5 lbs/100 sq. ft. every 3 months. These fertilizers should have 100% of their N, K, and Mg in controlled release form to maximize their effectiveness to the plants and minimize their impact on the environment.

Choosing The Right Palms For Your Landscape

Stand Of Palm Trees

When choosing a palm for your landscape, the following considerations should be taken into account:

– Is the Palm being planted for a windbreak or a screen (clumping Palm)?
– Is the Palm being planted for a focal point?
– Does the planting spacing location lend itself to a large, medium, or small Palm?
– Are they overhead or below ground utilities nearby?
– Is the site very sunny or shady, a wind corridor or protected
– How cold is the site? What is the hardiness zone?
– Is the soil deep, fertile, and well drained, or is it shallow, compacted, and infertile?
– Does the Palm have large fruits or fronds that need to be removed regularly to reduce the possibility of injury or damage to – property?

Most palms are grown in containers at nurseries, although larger specimens may be field grown. Choose a healthy Palm for the best results in your landscape. Always purchase from a reputable garden center or nursery.
A high quality Palm has a properly sized root ball for the species and trunk diameter. A trunk free of mechanical wounds is an important consideration when choosing a quality Palm. It is important that you inspect the Palm for wounds from incorrect pruning and that there is a uniform trunk diameter consistent with the species natural characteristics. If the trunk sections are of varying diameter, such as an hourglass or small diameter below the terminal bud (also known as penciling); these are important reasons not to purchase a palm with these inferior characteristics.

When planting palms it is important to tie the fronds and limit excessive movement of the Palm head to protect the terminal bud during transport and planting. Remove dead or dying fronds prior to planting. The planting all should be approximately 18 inches (46 cm) wider than the root ball to loosens surrounding soil. It is important to plant the Palm with the top of the root initiation zone about even with the soil surface. The original depth may have been too deep in the nursery. Backfill the planting hole with the original soil where possible.

Here is a list of suitable palms for the Manatee/Sarasota area:

Florida Thatch Palm (Thrinax radiata)

Native to the Keys. Maximum height 30 ft. Fan-like leaves are 3 ft long and yellowish-green.

Saw Palmetto (Serenoa repens)
Native to the Keys.
Dwarf palm with creeping stem 8 ft long; sometimes grows erect to height of 20 ft. Fan-shaped leaves are 4 ft across. Flowers are fragrant, small, white, and densely massed in elongated plume-like clusters. Fruit is black and oblong.

Florida Royal Palm (Roystonea elata)

Native to Florida.Maximum height is 100 ft. Feather-shaped leaves are dark green and 15 ft long. Trunk is smooth, cylindrical, light gray, and topped by a sleek, green crownshaft. Flowers are whitish-yellow and hang in clusters; Fruit is dark purple.

Cuban Royal Palm (Roystonea regia)

Not native. Maximum height is 70 ft. Feather-shaped leaves are dark green and 10 ft long. Trunk is similar to the Florida Royal Palm. The inflorescence is shorter and wider than the Florida Royal, and the fruit is oval.

Bismarck (Bismarckia nobilis)
Not native. Maximum height 60 ft. One of the most beautiful and desirable fan palms in the Keys landscape, although it can appear out of scale with small houses. It is bold, formal, and massive.

Buccaneer Palm (Pseudophoenix sargentii)
Native to the Keys. Maximum height 10 ft. One of the most durable palms for seaside planting. Growth is slow, and no two trees look alike.

Arikury Palm (Syagrus schizophylla) Not native.
Maximum height 15 ft. Grows well in shade and indoors. Flower is white, and fruit is orange.

Foxtail Palm (Wodyetia bifurcata)
Not native. Maximum height 30 ft. The name comes from the bushy appearance of the leaves. Commonly has problems with manganese and zinc deficiency.

Cabbage Palm (Sabal palmetto)
Native to the Keys. Height to 40′. Used as a framing tree, in palm groupings, as a free-standing specimen, patio tree, or on roadside. Grows slowly and requires little maintenance after establishment. The native cabbage palm cannot be excelled. It is Florida’s state tree. Tolerant to different light conditions, salt, and alkaline soil.

Dwarf Palmetto (Sabal minor)
Native to the Keys. Maximum height 6 ft. Good specimen plant in partial shade.

How long can trees and palms survive flooding and heavy winds before injury results?

Florida Trees and Storm Damage

As you might expect, this has become an all too frequent question lately as torrential rains and bloated rivers continue to plague many regions in Florida. Fortunately for most trees and palms, the prospect for survival and continued growth is good. Even flood-sensitive trees and palms will escape injury if flood waters recede in seven days or less. But, if flood waters cover roots of sensitive trees for longer periods, injury symptoms such as leaf chlorosis (yellowing), downward curling of leaves, leaf drop, and branch dieback may occur. And in a few extreme cases, entire trees may die.

Which palms are tolerant of flooding and heavy winds?

– Paurotis Palm/Everglades Palm
– Florida Thatch Palm
– Coconut Palm
– Cabbage Palm
– Saw Palmetto
– Royal Palm

Which palms are intolerant of flooding and heavy winds?

– Queen Palm
– Washington Fan Palm

Which trees are tolerant of flooding and heavy winds?

– Pond and Bald Cypress
– Live Oak
– Gumbo Limbo
– Seagrape
– Strangler Fig
– Cocoplum
– Mastic
– Dahoon Holly
– Pond Apple
– Black Ironwood
– Stoppers
– Myrsine
– Buttonwood
– Red Bay
– Jamaican Caper

Which trees are intolerant of flooding and heavy winds?

– Australian Pine
– Yellow Tabebuia
– Norfolk Island Pine
– Black Olive
– Weeping Fig
– Carrotwood
– Royal Poinciana
– Silk Oak
– Java Plum
– Hong Kong Orchid
– Jacaranda
– Earleaf Acacia
– Eucalyptus
– Javanese Bishopwood

Researchers have found these species suffer severe injury or die if flood waters persist over their roots for one month or less.

Flood waters will eventually recede but soils will undoubtedly remain wet for a long time. Saturated, poorly-drained soils may pose the greatest hazard for trees and palms, particularly if this waterlogged condition persists for an extended period. If oxygen cannot penetrate to roots, trees may exhibit symptoms associated with flooding. Warm, dry weather is the only cure for this chronic and potentially deadly soil condition. Another hidden danger resulting from flooding is the deposition of sediment over tree roots. Silt and sand deposited to a depth greater than 3 inches also may impede movement of oxygen to tree roots, especially on small or newly-planted trees. When possible sediment should be removed.

Except in cases where flood waters persist for months or where trees and palms have been injured by the sheer force of rushing water, most trees experiencing flood conditions should survive. If flood- sensitive species begin to show flood damage symptoms, recovery may begin once soil oxygen levels return to a more favorable state. During this recovery period it is important that any additional stresses be eliminated. In addition, if dead or dying branches are noticed in the tree crown, they should be removed as quickly as possible. And beware of so-called “tree experts” recommending rescue treatments for affected trees. Fertilization is not a cure or remedy for root injury caused by flooding! Finally, avoid planting sensitive species in flood-prone areas in the event of future flooding events.